I found this wonderful pattern on Ravelry for a cowl. It helps a beginner play with different stitches. In the end, you have this great-looking cowl. I have had so much fun doing this pattern!
Yet I kept finding myself running into the same pattern issues over and over again.
Originally I made notes for myself but realized it could be useful for others. Which is why I decided to put it into a blog post (below).
Here is the Mostassa Cowl with instructions additions and note additions I completed early September 2018.
You can find me on Ravelry via handle AstroGirlBunny.
_________________________________________________________________________
www.ovejitabe.com – info@ovejitabe.com
ABOUT
The Mostassa cowl is designed to be a sampler of knitting stitches, an invitation to try new techniques and experiment. The name is inspired by the color of the chosen yarn, a yellow mustard tone perfect for brightening grey days. This cowl is knitted seamless in the round, with a circular needle or DPNs. It features easy to knit and purl stitch patterns, decreases, yarn overs and slipped stitches, suitable for advanced-beginners. It is an ideal project to try circular needle knitting!
Needles:
24” (60 cm) length cord and US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle or size needed to achieve gauge. See “Final Measurements” below to see final circumference. Using a tape measure, make sure that this will be wide enough to pull over the head of the person you are making this for. If it is not, going up one needle size to US size 8 (5 mm) is usually sufficient as long as the yarn label suggests needle size US 7 (4.5 mm). For even larger, find a yarn with a label that indicates use of needles US size 8 (5 mm) and use then use needles US size 9 (5.5 mm). But please know once you go this large, it will be much larger. Alternatively: You can use a 40” (100 cm) or longer circular needle to work in magic loop or DPNs if preferred.
Yarn Used:
Rosas Crafts’ Mogollon 4 (100% acrylic; 200 m / 100 g). One ball in color 115. This is a worsted yarn which recommends size 6 or 7 US knitting needles (in case you are looking for a similar yarn). Solid or semisolid colors are recommended. This will allow the stitch patterns to show better.
Yardage actually needed:
130-150 meters / 142-164 yards.
Gauge:
15 sts x 18 rows in 10 cm/ 4”, in stockinette stitch.
Other notions:
Darning needle, though a small crochet hook (4 mm or 4.5 mm) can be used instead. 1 stitch marker for round starting point (optional but highly suggested).
Final measurements:
Using US size 7 (4.5 mm) needles: One size - 48-52 cm / 19-20.5” circumference, 23 cm / 9” height.
Finished Size:
Techniques used:
- Knit & purl.
- Knit two stitches together.
- Yarn over.
- Slip one stitch.
Cindy’s notes – The videos she provides are her own but are not in English (for the cast on and bind off.) Therefore I am providing videos I have found that are in English and think are helpful. But I’ve kept her original links within the pattern as well.
- German twisted cast on: VideoLink.
Cindy’s Notes: Here are some others which I found more helpful:
My favorite German Twisted Cast On video: German Twisted Cast On - 1
My 2nd favorite German Twisted Cast On video: German Twisted Cast On - 2
- Working in the round with circular needles or with DPNs.
- Bind off in pattern: VideoLink.
Cindy’s Notes: Here is a bind off in 2x2 pattern I found helpful:
This is specifically bind off for 2kx2p pattern: Binding Off in 2x2 Pattern
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
K knit
P purl
K2tog knit 2 sts together
Sl slip stitch
Yo yarn over
St(s) stitch(es)
R round
PM place marker
PATTERN
Cast on 77 sts using the German twisted cast on. Suggest using small PM’s after every 20th stitch.
Later, when working the first Ribbing Round, it will help you with keeping the casted stitches from
getting twisted. At least it helped me in the sense of it helped on keeping the yarn straight during the first round.
Join in the round by knitting together the first and the last stitch: slip first stitch from the right to the left needle, then place marker on right needle (beginning of the round), then knit the two stitches on the left needle together. This stitch, that you just knitted, counts as your first stitch on the first “Ribbing Round” (see below). At this point you will have a total of 76 stitches.
Please be careful to not twist the cast of stitches which you work the first Ribbing Round. After completing the first round, it should become much easier to keep the stitches from becoming twisted. PM if needed at the beginning of the round, then knit the two sts together.
Ribbing Rounds Begin:
Note on the first round: If you had placed markers after every 20th stitch during cast on, now remove them as you come across them. You should no longer need them once you work up to that point.
Make sure you do not ever remove the main Place Marker for the project which indicates the start/stop of each round. Not until you are done with the project.
Complete this Ribbing pattern for 6 rounds: *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Section 1: Stockinette Stitch
Knit 8 rounds.
Purl 1 round.
Section 2: Moss Stitch
Knit 1 round.
Moss Stitch (Rounds 1 & 2 are repeated 2 more times but I’ve chosen to write it out.)
R1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R3: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R5: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Section 3: Eyelet Pattern
Knit 2 rounds.
R1: *k2, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: k.
R3: *k2tog, yo, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: k.
R5: *k2, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: k.
Purl 1 round.
Section 4: mock ribbing stitch
Knit 1 round.
Mock Ribbing Stitch (It calls to repeat 1 & 2 two more times but I decided to write them out.)
R1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: k.
R3: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: k.
R5: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: k.
Purl 1 round.
Section 5: Slipped Moss Stitch
Knit 1 round.
Slipped Moss Stitch (It calls to repeat 1-4 one more time. I’ve decided to write it out.)
R1: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: *sl1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R3: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: *k1, sl1, repeat from * to end of round.
R5: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: *sl1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R7: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R8: *k1, sl1, repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Section 6: Stockinette Stitch
Knit 8 rounds.
Ribbing Rounds End:
Do Ribbing pattern for 6 rounds.
*k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Finishing:
Bind off in pattern (see videos at beginning of pattern). Block.
Weave in ends with the darning needle or small crochet hook.
Blue Mist Mostassa Cowl
Tidal Blue Mostassa Cowl
____________________
TERMS OF USE
About the pattern: This pattern is copyrighted by Ovejita Be! – Teresa Sánchez © 2018.
About finished objects: The copyright applies only to the pattern itself. You can sell, donate or give your finished objects. If you list them online, I just ask you for credit for the design in the item’s description. Thank you!
Yet I kept finding myself running into the same pattern issues over and over again.
Originally I made notes for myself but realized it could be useful for others. Which is why I decided to put it into a blog post (below).
Here is the Mostassa Cowl with instructions additions and note additions I completed early September 2018.
You can find me on Ravelry via handle AstroGirlBunny.
_________________________________________________________________________
MOSTASSA COWL
Designed by Ovejita Be! – Teresa Sánchez © 2018 Link to pattern on Ravelry: Mostassa Cowlwww.ovejitabe.com – info@ovejitabe.com
ABOUT
The Mostassa cowl is designed to be a sampler of knitting stitches, an invitation to try new techniques and experiment. The name is inspired by the color of the chosen yarn, a yellow mustard tone perfect for brightening grey days. This cowl is knitted seamless in the round, with a circular needle or DPNs. It features easy to knit and purl stitch patterns, decreases, yarn overs and slipped stitches, suitable for advanced-beginners. It is an ideal project to try circular needle knitting!
Needles:
24” (60 cm) length cord and US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle or size needed to achieve gauge. See “Final Measurements” below to see final circumference. Using a tape measure, make sure that this will be wide enough to pull over the head of the person you are making this for. If it is not, going up one needle size to US size 8 (5 mm) is usually sufficient as long as the yarn label suggests needle size US 7 (4.5 mm). For even larger, find a yarn with a label that indicates use of needles US size 8 (5 mm) and use then use needles US size 9 (5.5 mm). But please know once you go this large, it will be much larger. Alternatively: You can use a 40” (100 cm) or longer circular needle to work in magic loop or DPNs if preferred.
Yarn Used:
Rosas Crafts’ Mogollon 4 (100% acrylic; 200 m / 100 g). One ball in color 115. This is a worsted yarn which recommends size 6 or 7 US knitting needles (in case you are looking for a similar yarn). Solid or semisolid colors are recommended. This will allow the stitch patterns to show better.
Yardage actually needed:
130-150 meters / 142-164 yards.
Gauge:
15 sts x 18 rows in 10 cm/ 4”, in stockinette stitch.
Other notions:
Darning needle, though a small crochet hook (4 mm or 4.5 mm) can be used instead. 1 stitch marker for round starting point (optional but highly suggested).
Final measurements:
Using US size 7 (4.5 mm) needles: One size - 48-52 cm / 19-20.5” circumference, 23 cm / 9” height.
Finished Size:
Techniques used:
- Knit & purl.
- Knit two stitches together.
- Yarn over.
- Slip one stitch.
Cindy’s notes – The videos she provides are her own but are not in English (for the cast on and bind off.) Therefore I am providing videos I have found that are in English and think are helpful. But I’ve kept her original links within the pattern as well.
- German twisted cast on: VideoLink.
Cindy’s Notes: Here are some others which I found more helpful:
My favorite German Twisted Cast On video: German Twisted Cast On - 1
My 2nd favorite German Twisted Cast On video: German Twisted Cast On - 2
- Working in the round with circular needles or with DPNs.
- Bind off in pattern: VideoLink.
Cindy’s Notes: Here is a bind off in 2x2 pattern I found helpful:
This is specifically bind off for 2kx2p pattern: Binding Off in 2x2 Pattern
STITCH ABBREVIATIONS
K knit
P purl
K2tog knit 2 sts together
Sl slip stitch
Yo yarn over
St(s) stitch(es)
R round
PM place marker
PATTERN
Cast on 77 sts using the German twisted cast on. Suggest using small PM’s after every 20th stitch.
Later, when working the first Ribbing Round, it will help you with keeping the casted stitches from
getting twisted. At least it helped me in the sense of it helped on keeping the yarn straight during the first round.
Join in the round by knitting together the first and the last stitch: slip first stitch from the right to the left needle, then place marker on right needle (beginning of the round), then knit the two stitches on the left needle together. This stitch, that you just knitted, counts as your first stitch on the first “Ribbing Round” (see below). At this point you will have a total of 76 stitches.
Please be careful to not twist the cast of stitches which you work the first Ribbing Round. After completing the first round, it should become much easier to keep the stitches from becoming twisted. PM if needed at the beginning of the round, then knit the two sts together.
Ribbing Rounds Begin:
Note on the first round: If you had placed markers after every 20th stitch during cast on, now remove them as you come across them. You should no longer need them once you work up to that point.
Make sure you do not ever remove the main Place Marker for the project which indicates the start/stop of each round. Not until you are done with the project.
Complete this Ribbing pattern for 6 rounds: *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Section 1: Stockinette Stitch
Knit 8 rounds.
Purl 1 round.
Section 2: Moss Stitch
Knit 1 round.
Moss Stitch (Rounds 1 & 2 are repeated 2 more times but I’ve chosen to write it out.)
R1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R3: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R5: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Section 3: Eyelet Pattern
Knit 2 rounds.
R1: *k2, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: k.
R3: *k2tog, yo, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: k.
R5: *k2, k2tog, yo, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: k.
Purl 1 round.
Section 4: mock ribbing stitch
Knit 1 round.
Mock Ribbing Stitch (It calls to repeat 1 & 2 two more times but I decided to write them out.)
R1: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: k.
R3: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: k.
R5: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: k.
Purl 1 round.
Section 5: Slipped Moss Stitch
Knit 1 round.
Slipped Moss Stitch (It calls to repeat 1-4 one more time. I’ve decided to write it out.)
R1: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R2: *sl1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R3: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R4: *k1, sl1, repeat from * to end of round.
R5: *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R6: *sl1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
R7: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
R8: *k1, sl1, repeat from * to end of round.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Section 6: Stockinette Stitch
Knit 8 rounds.
Ribbing Rounds End:
Do Ribbing pattern for 6 rounds.
*k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Finishing:
Bind off in pattern (see videos at beginning of pattern). Block.
Weave in ends with the darning needle or small crochet hook.
You are done! Below are some of my completed cowls for this pattern...
Blue Mist Mostassa Cowl
Tidal Blue Mostassa Cowl
____________________
TERMS OF USE
About the pattern: This pattern is copyrighted by Ovejita Be! – Teresa Sánchez © 2018.
About finished objects: The copyright applies only to the pattern itself. You can sell, donate or give your finished objects. If you list them online, I just ask you for credit for the design in the item’s description. Thank you!
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